Random

Asking someone how they are doing is so ingrained that even if you say “hello” to someone on the road, their reply is, “I’m fine.”

People turn off their cars when driving downhill to conserve gas. 

We have a golden bell to ring instead of an automated fire alarm system.

"Africa either makes you better or bitter.”  - Shaunessy

Every room in my house is labeled.

There is a housekeeper and a groundskeeper who come 5 days a week.

We have a full-time guard who makes about $2 for a 12-hour shift.

We have a separate bathroom outside for our house staff – I don’t know what I think about this.

Every day, a new and beautiful hibiscus is blooming next to my papaya tree.

There are over 20,000 mzungus living in Kampala.

Alcoholism is a major problem among expats.

There are three (I think) traffic lights in the entire city even though the population of Kampala is approaching 1.5 million people.

At the end of every day, my Ugandan co-worker tells me “well done.”  It’s small, but somehow it makes everything a little better regardless of if the day went smoothly or was a total nightmare.

Of 18 participants enrolled in one of the studies I am working on, 10 have already died.

Instead of peanuts, they have g nuts.

I came expecting the Ugandans to be the ones who would be unorganized; however, it is my American employers’ disorganization that tests my patience every day.

I’ve learned more about office politics in the past few months than I would have liked.

I never knew the meaning of dusty until I moved here.

I have always been told that if you pee in the middle of the road you will get a sty in your eye.  I’m surprised every Ugandan man doesn’t have a permanent sty.

The World is My Playground

                Although I am now grown up (relatively speaking, of course), the thrill I felt  as I was tracking the mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest reminded me of my childhood when I spent  the majority of my time curiously exploring the world around me.  As I was slashing my way through the dense growth of the jungle, I was reminded of how awesome, diverse, and surprising the world really is.  Although we had to drive nearly 12 hours (which meant stopping by the equator, randomly encountering a herd of zebras, and passing through a region that is known to be the home of tree-climbing lions – which unfortunately were hiding) Kara and I finally arrived in Bwindi National Park.  Upon our arrival, we had a quick dinner and got ready for bed so we would be fully rested to track the endangered mountain gorillas of Uganda.

We were planning to enter Lake Mburo National Park to see the zebras; however, the zebras were waiting for us outside the park entrance along the highway.

Ishasha - Home of the tree-climbing lions.  After several hours of driving around looking for lions in fig trees, I began to wonder if tree-climbing lions was just another term for snipes.

Our lodging in Bwindi



We stayed in the "Gorilla" banda - how appropriate



                After eating breakfast and being briefed of what to expect upon encountering the gorillas, we were ready to begin our game of hide and seek with the gorillas.  When I saw that the majority of the other trackers were middle-aged Westerners, I assumed that I would have no problem with the ensuing hike.  I was dead wrong.  We immediately began hiking straight up the mountain, testing my endurance and fitness.  No other hike I have been on has been steeper - unless you count my rock climbing sessions.  Also, I have never been responsible for cutting through the dense plants to make my way up the mountain.  The combination of these factors made for the most adventurous hike of my life.  Needless to say, I loved it.  After hiking for nearly four hours, we arrived at a relatively flat space, left our bags, and were led to the gorillas.

Mzungu, Bye!  Have a nice hike!

Before we began our ascent up the mountain

These bananas will be used to make waragi, a type of Ugandan gin

Beginning our hike on a well-maintained trail.  Still thinking it would be pretty easy.



Where did the path go?

BABY GORILLA!  I think this one was my favorite.

The silverback - he was huge!  Definitely wouldn't want to make him mad...

Wrestling

These ones kind of look like midget stuffed animals wrestling

The little guy is swinging from the vines

This is how far you are supposed to stay from the gorillas

This is how far we actually were from the gorillas

Although gorilla tracking is by far the most expensive excursion in Uganda (costing $500 for a day permit); for the girl whose pharmacy school personal statement compared her life to the Denver Gorilla Run - which involves dressing as a gorilla and running a 10k in order to raise money for the mountain gorillas in Uganda - I think the cost was justified.

Courtesy of Kara Lombardi - nice shot!



Receiving our Gorilla Tracking Certificates from our guide



            In order to maintain a semi-normal life for the habituated gorillas, tourists are only allotted one hour each day with the gorillas.  At the end of the hour, Kara and I were both sad to say goodbye to the gorillas; however, our adventure was not quite over.  As we were driving back to Kampala the next day, we again tried our luck at finding the tree-climbing lions.  This time we were a little more successful.  John, our driver, finally spotted a lion nearly 200 yards away.  Because there is about a $50 fine for driving off the track, we first listened for approaching cars.  Having heard none, we quickly made our way across the tall grass until we were 15 yards from the lion.

Notice the lion in the tree - John probably shouldn't have been out of the car at this point...

Isn't she beautiful?

Booking it back to the track before we were fined

Colobus monkeys just outside of Queen Elizabeth National Park

Perfect spot to view the herd of elephants - surprisingly, they are one of the most dangerous animals you can encounter while on safari

The herd of elephants we passed on the highway on our way home



And you're Going to Be a Doctor?!?

                What do you do when you receive a message that one of your classmates is sick and lost in Uganda without any place to stay?  Invite them to stay with you to make sure they are ok, of course.  Good idea until you find out that their mental stability is beyond questionable. 

About ten o’clock one night, a medical student shows up at my house upon the recommendation of my boss (who also happens to be this guy’s hero – kind of weird…).  The student, who has spent quite a bit of time in Gulu (northern Uganda) rolls up on a boda clearly disheveled and most likely strung out on who knows what.  Not only did he lose his bag and meds on the way to our house, he also lost the shirt off his own back.  Seriously, how do you lose the shirt you are wearing when riding a motorcycle?  I don’t mean to be condescending or judgmental, but, he’s in med school?!?  You would also think that when asking a medical student about their medical conditions (that are severe enough to consider being air evacuated home to the US), they would not be fixated on how they had gained weight during the past couple of months but instead would relay the most pertinent information.  Information like the raging infection in your toe that is probably the cause of your swollen leg or how you have been coughing up “stuff,” the past couple of days that may or may not be associated the GERD you have been experiencing.  All of this may be related to the steroids he has most likely been taking, the eight red bulls he has been drinking daily, or the cuts and scars all over his upper body.  Needless to say, it would’ve been a little uncomfortable for my roommate and me to handle him ourselves.  Luckily for us, a 2^nd year medical resident who is conducting cryptococcal meningitis research throughout the next month showed up the same night.  Also, I had been hanging out with Shaunessy, my neighbor from Colorado, just before this guy arrived.  Not only was it great to see her, but she is a pro at handling crazy medical situations in foreign countries since she has spent quite a bit of time working as a nurse in Uganda, Sudan, and Thailand.   Shau and the medical resident helped provide this guy with a little better medical advice than would have been provided otherwise, not to mention a little reassurance to my roommate and me.

Although he probably should have gone home Sunday night when he arrived at our house, somehow he has extended his own invitation and will be staying with us until Friday…

One of the treasures I have found since he has been staying with us.  "Dear Earthlings..."?



I Might be Obsessed...

            The botanical gardens of Uganda, which are located about an hour outside of Kampala is the filming site for the original Tarzan (1932).  Several weekends ago I visited these gardens with Devavani.  Devavani is a biology professor at Macalester College in Minnesota who had come to Uganda for two weeks to help with some of the projects I am in the middle of implementing.   During this excursion, Devavani’s bird obsession was revealed and my obsession with monkeys was made clear. 

As opposed to the baboons, vervet monkeys are friendly and approachable

Lucky for me, January is when most baby monkeys are born.  Pretty much every female had a baby in her arms or in her belly.  We saw one monkey that was only one day old!

Our tour guide, Brite, feeding the monkeys

Holding his hand!

Can you imagine how many pictures I would have taken if my camera battery hadn't died?!?

We also visited an orphanage on the way.  The kids are pretty cute too.

            To be honest, since coming back from the holidays, life, and especially work, has been a bit overwhelming.  Seeing the monkeys; however, did make things better.  Oh, the small things in life J

Roy the Klepto – aka Roy the Former Houseboy

                When I arrived home after the holidays, strange things seemed to have happened while I was gone.  Not only was the mirror in my bathroom missing, but my money belt, which had been filled with bills and coins when I left for the U.S., was empty.  While I have to admit that I am not always the best at keeping track of my money, it was pretty obvious that money had been taken; though how much money was hard to determine.   My only suspect was Roy, the housekeeper, since he was the only person who had access to our house over the holidays. 

                While inventing ways to confirm my suspicions, Darin, my housemate for the week, beat me to it.  He approached me one afternoon saying that he had marked several bills in his wallet, hid them, and checked back after Roy cleaned his room to see if they were still there.  They were gone.  Later that day, Darin spoke with Roy telling him that he was missing some money and that he expected it to be returned by the time he left several days later.  Sure enough, after Darin came home from work, the marked bills were left in the room with a note from Roy. 

                I have heard of Uganda as being a “Kleptocracy,” but had not seen much theft firsthand until now.  Sure, all of the light bulbs in the streetlamps are missing because they were stolen, but that really doesn’t affect me too much.  Roy’s thievery, on the other hand, hits home - literally.  Not only was he one of my best resources when it came to questions about my life in Kampala (i.e. how to get places, who is coming in and out of my house on a daily basis, which bills need to be paid, etc.), I also considered him a good friend.  Every day he would join me as I ate breakfast and probably knew as much as anyone here about my friends and family back home.  To have that trust shattered left me reeling for quite some time and makes me question the ethics of other people I come in contact with on a daily basis...

'Tis the Season

The past month, as the holiday season drew near, I found I couldn’t quite get into the holiday spirit.  Instead of sitting by the fire with hot cocoa surrounded by family and friends, I found myself sitting by pools in Uganda’s eternal summer surrounded by friends I have met within the last three months.  Although I missed the Christmas cookies, music, and twinkling lights that bring the holiday cheer, I did not miss the holiday stress.  Contrary to the hustle and bustle felt within the U.S. during Christmastime, the streets of Kampala gradually grew less crowded and more peaceful as the expats traveled to their respective countries and the Ugandans traveled to their family’s villages.  Additionally, by being removed from the materialistic nature that is associated with the American Christmas, I am reminded of what Christmas should be about.   I begin to realize how much I appreciate the time I can spend with my family and friends as compared to the gifts I receive from these people.

            Although it may not have felt like Christmas, my work put on a Christmas party.  Staff members from various parts of Uganda gathered at the Imperial Grande Hotel for wining, dining, and dancing.  

My co-workers - Britta and Kara

More co-workers

Dancing with Peter

Sadick "shaking" - he is one of the many of Ugandans who dances with himself  in the mirror at clubs to make sure he is dancing well...

            On December 21^st, I set out for my nearly 36 hours of traveling.  Although my time in Colorado seemed short, I was able to see the majority of my family and friends and was reminded of how great all of these people are.

Christmas Eve at Corey and Erika's new house

Skiing with my family at Copper on Christmas

After skiing on Christmas

New Year's Eve Masquerade

            Despite being sad to leave my family and friends in Colorado, upon my arrival to Uganda, I was welcomed by everyone I came across.  Everyone from my driver who came to pick me up at the airport, to my co-workers, to the children I pass on my way to work (who still continue to touch me as much as possible as I walk by), to the grocer and baker - they all seemed happy to have me back.  Some welcomed me a little too strongly…like the boda drivers who I am sure I have never spoken to, but who somehow know where I live...kind of creepy…Regardless, it was nice to be welcomed back so warmly.